Black arms covered in white flour extend to gnarled fingers deftly kneading a lump of dough into round flat bread. Mary Margaret flashes me a toothy grin from a well-etched face, “I am making damper for the tourists”, she responds to my enquiry. Her shock of white hair and grandmotherly appearance contrast sharply to the energy she brings in sharing parts of her Tiwi culture with countless visitors. With her friend Doreen, an accomplished artist, they have become legendary as the tea and damper ladies who entrance all who visit Bathurst Island north of Darwin. They are an integral part of one of the oldest Aboriginal tourism enterprises in Australia.

Weaving pandanus baskets, painting mussel shells, crafting the delicate armbands, face painting the more adventurous guests, dancing the welcome dance and ceremoniously smoking the visitors with fronds of ironbark leaves are all part of the action. Beaming young faces of the grandchildren intermingle with the quizzical looks of the tourists as ageless knowledge and wisdom is dispensed in a totally relaxed and inclusive atmosphere. Paul, one of the new generation guides, explains that Tiwi Islanders take great pride in showing their culture to the stream of visitors who come from all parts of the world. The Church precinct, museum and a range of art and craft enterprises have all been part of our full day tour which also included visiting one of the bush burial sites with their distinctive carved ‘pukamani’ poles.

The group of guests, ashore from a cruise boat on a special visit, happily devour the damper bread fresh from the hot coals and wash it down with the traditional black ‘billy’ tea. As I eat more than my share of damper spread with butter and jam I ask Mary Margaret about her damper recipe. Eyes flashing she looks sternly at me and emphatically states, “No way! It is a secret taught to me by my husband”. Enjoy!

Good travelling!

Joc Schmiechen

Tiwi Tours is an Aboriginal owned tour company operating on Bathurst Island. Bathurst and Melville Islands and the sea that surround them are the home of our people the Tiwi. Prior to modern transportation, our people were very isolated and as a result Tiwi culture developed independently from that on the mainland.

Tourists have been coming to our Island for the past 15 years and local Tiwi guides now conduct all tours. Our ‘Morning Tea Ladies’ alone now have over 40 years combined experience in the tourism industry. Our guides include former school teachers, star Australian Rules Football players, an acolyte and up and coming track and field champions.

The Tiwi people are proud, outgoing and friendly and time spent with us provides a unique experience. Our tours are culturally based and visitors learn first hand about the traditions and culture that co-exist with today’s modern society.

Doreen applying ceremonial paint

Mary Margaret making Damper

Mary Ann painting mud mussel shell

Tiwi welcome dance

:: LOCATION

Bathurst Island is located 80 kilometres north of Darwin in the Northern Territory and is accessible by a short scenic flight in light aircraft.

:: ACTIVITIES

On a typical Day Tour visitors to the Island will visit several of the art & craft centres in the Community. Tiwi fabric print designs are noted world-wide. In 1986 the Tiwi people prepared the vestments worn by Pope John Paul during his Australian tour, the designs included both papal and Tiwi symbols. Tiwi pottery and Tiwi Pima woodcarvings are also expanding industries. After watching the artists, carvers and screen printers at work visitors have the opportunity to buy goods at “Island Prices”. We visit the museum which traces the history of the Tiwi people from Dreamtime to the present and then the unique Tiwi Catholic church. We have billy tea and damper with some of the Tiwi ladies who will perform traditional dancing. Heading out bush to a burial site we learn some of the complex rituals including the ‘Pukamani Poles’ before lunching by a local waterhole. The afternoon is spent learning about traditional bush tuckers, bush medicine and fibres and dyes around the shoreline and mangroves of Tarntipi Beach.

As well as our One Day Tour, Two day Tours are also available and we are only too happy to cater to charters and groups - Just Ask!